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October 30, London is one of the most romantic cities in the world. Mon—Fri 9. Barratt St, Herne Hill 08 , sittella. Free tastings. Tues—Sun 11am—4pm. Avoid the dreary Brand Highway in favour of the more scenic Indian Ocean Drive to reach the Pinnacles in around two and a half hours, making a long day-trip from Perth a possibility.

Alternatively, stop over in the windswept crayfishing town of Cervantes. Historic Greenough also makes a worthwhile stopover. This stretch of coast is awash with maritime history. The seventeenth and eighteenth centuries were notable for the wrecking of numerous Dutch East India Company ships, including the Batavia in , and the Zuytdorp in During the journey, merchants Adriaene Jacobsz and Jeronimus Cornelisz hatched a plan to hijack the ship and effect a mutiny, allowing them to steal the booty on board and start a new life somewhere.

After Jacobsz deliberately steered the ship off course, the Batavia struck a reef close to the Houtman Abrolhos islands. Pelsaert was given a new ship with which to rescue those left on the island, but on his return found that Cornelisz had unleashed a bloody mutiny , killing survivors.

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The wreck of the Batavia was salvaged in the s, with many of the items on board now displayed in museums in Geraldton and Fremantle. The fate of the Zuytdorp survivors had been a year-old mystery until a rare disease endemic among seventeenth-century Afrikaaners ships en route to the Dutch East Indies routinely stopped in South Africa to stock up on provisions was discovered in local Aborigines, which suggests that some of the castaways survived long enough to pass the gene on.

Recent research has discredited this idea, but controversy surrounding the wreck remains, with various locals claiming its discovery between the s and s, and accusations of looting rife. It was sunk in mysterious circumstances off the West Australian coast in , after a confrontation with the Kormoran , a German merchant trader disguised as a Dutch ship.

It made front-page news in Australia and finally granted some peace to the families of the strong crew who were lost. About km north of Perth are the ancient, mineral-rich highlands of the Pilbara , an area that includes Mount Meharry, at m the highest point in WA. As a result, company towns such as Tom Price and Newman abound, offering little to travellers except mine tours and overpriced accommodation. While the Pilbara is unquestionably the economic powerhouse of the state and indeed the nation , the unquenchable growth of the mining industries has had knock-on effects throughout the region.

Chronic housing shortages plague many towns, Karratha and Port Hedland in particular, and hotels and hostels are increasingly bought up by companies desperate to house their staff. Surrounding the huge open-cast mine sites are vast, arid pastoral stations, recovering from or surrendering to overgrazing.

Up the coast, Cossack and Port Samson offer respite from the relentless heat and mining mentality. Travellers rave about the nerve-jangling walks, timeless scenery and sparkling waterholes here, and are often taken aback at the lush, spinifex-covered hills and proliferation of white-trunked snappy gums that sprout from the blood-red rock, distinguishing the Pilbara from the better-known but drier Kimberley, especially in July and August the busiest months. The gorges themselves cut through the north-facing escarpment of the Hamersley Ranges and all offer spectacular views as well as a range of graded walks through their interiors.

There are scores of superlative swimming holes in the park too, but they tend to be situated deep in the gorges, and are rarely less than absolutely freezing, even on the hottest days. Karijini Drive is sealed, but the northern Banjima Drive, which runs between the gorges, is predominantly corrugated dirt. Barring adverse weather, the park remains accessible for all vehicles throughout the year, although 2WD may find things a little bumpy. The gorges get extremely hot between November and April, making the winter the best time to visit, and flash floods are reasonably common so keep an eye on the weather forecast.

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Keep a check on your watch too — ascending out of the gorges in anything less than full daylight is a definite no-no. The park has a western entrance, accessed from Highway 1 via Tom Price, and an eastern entrance, accessed via the Great Northern Highway from Newman in the south or Port Hedland to the north. Whichever way you enter, make sure you fill up at the last available fuel station as driving distances in the park tend to be underestimated; count on doing around km.

Across Australia, all walking routes are marked as being in one of six different classes. Classes 1—3 can be completed comfortably by most, Class 4 requires a reasonable level of fitness, while Class 5 tend to be exhilarating semi-Indiana Jones-style adventures. Class 6 requires you to either be a qualified rock-climber and abseiler with all the necessary equipment, or on a guided tour. Injuries are common in Karijini National Park, and fatalities do occur, so think carefully about which trail your level of fitness will allow you to complete comfortably, and wear solid walking sandals — on many walks a small slip could see you plunge a fair distance down a gorge face.

The beautiful Coral Coast stretches from Shark Bay , an ecological and evolutionary hotspot of the highest order, up to the arid spike of land on which Exmouth and Coral Bay rest. People head here to see the stunning km Ningaloo Reef that fringes the western edge of the peninsula, never more than 7km offshore and in places accessible right from the beach. Increasing numbers head to the tiny, laidback resort of Coral Bay at the southern end of the reef, rather than basing themselves in sterile Exmouth, near the tip of the peninsula.

In between Shark Bay and Exmouth is Carnarvon , a good base for exploring the exhilarating 4WD track north to Gnaraloo Station , past wild beaches and tumultuous seas. It extends for some 10 nautical miles out to sea and covers more than square kilometres of ocean. It is the proximity of the continental shelf that gives this marine park such a stunning variety of marine life: more than species of fish and species of coral have been recorded here, attracting migrating humpback whales and whale sharks, plus numerous turtles, reef sharks and rays.

There are few better places in Australia — if not the world — for snorkelling to see marine life. Shark Bay is the name given to the two prongs of land and their corresponding lagoons situated west of Overlander Roadhouse on Highway 1. Denham , the only settlement, is on the western side of the eastern Peron Peninsula, while at Monkey Mia on the sheltered eastern side, bottlenose dolphins have been coming in to the beach almost daily since the s.

Note that fresh water is very precious in the Shark Bay area: salty bore water is used as much as possible. After all the hype, you might be surprised to find that Monkey Mia is just a resort and a jetty by a pretty beach.

Get here at 7. It is the mass spawning of more than species of coral every March or April that brings the whale sharks here and sightings are common until July. Interaction with these gentle giants the juvenile males seen here can measure up to 12 metres long is strictly regulated, with only one boat allowed to operate within the exclusive contact zone of metres around each whale shark at any one time and just 10 swimmers in the water at once. You will need to be a competent swimmer and can expect to be in and out of the water all day. Nothing can prepare you for the utter delight of swimming alongside a fish the size of a bus and with your eyes and ears in the water all else is blocked out until you emerge from this other-worldly experience.

If you are in Exmouth during whale shark season this is absolutely not to be missed. There are numerous whale shark tour operators running trips out from Exmouth and a few based in Coral Bay too. Some have their own spotter planes to increase the likelihood of finding a whale shark and all will equip you with masks, snorkel and fins, plus a wetsuit. Coral Bay Ecotours coralbayecotours. Ningaloo Experience ningalooexperience. Ningaloo Reef Dreaming ningaloodreaming.

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Ocean Eco Adventures oceanecoadventures. A DVD of your experience is included and lunch is a feast of local gourmet produce including fresh Exmouth prawns. Three Islands Marine Charters whalesharkdive. This passionate company focuses on one thing only — memorable whale shark snorkel tours with experienced skippers March—July. A videographer records your day and a complimentary DVD is included. Contrary perhaps to expectations, the Batavia and Coral coasts, Central Midlands region, the Pilbara and the Kimberley all have distinct personalities that become evident as you rack up the kilometres.

If you want to discover the wayside attractions, allow at least four to five weeks for the journey from Perth to Darwin. Three weeks will whizz you through the highlights; anything less and you may as well fly. A glance at a map shows the long distances between roadhouses, let alone settlements; plan your next petrol stop and make sure your vehicle is in sound condition, particularly the tyres and the cooling system, both of which will be working hard. In the railway from Perth reached the town of Southern Cross , just as big finds turned the rush into a national stampede.

This huge influx of people accentuated the water shortage, dealt with finally when a pipeline reached Kalgoorlie in Today the region is a pit-scarred and prematurely desertified landscape, dotted with the scavenged vestiges of past settlements, while at its core the Super Pit gold mine in Kalgoorlie gets wider and deeper every year. From whichever direction you approach Kalgoorlie — the bustling gold capital of Australia, municipally merged but still fervently distinct from Boulder — it comes as a surprise after hundreds of kilometres of desolation. With their instincts highly attuned after eight months of prospecting around Coolgardie, they soon found gold all around them, and as the first on the scene enjoyed the unusually easy pickings of surface gold.

As sole survivor of the original rush, and revitalized by the s nickel boom, Kalgoorlie has benefited from new technology that has largely dispensed with slow and dangerous underground mining. A pipeline was duly constructed and opened in , terminating today at Mount Charlotte lookout , where you can view displays on this magnificent feat of engineering.

Just two remain, one of which offers brothel tours. Approximately km southeast of Perth, Esperance is at the western end of the Archipelago of the Recherche.